Very low latency (less than 2 input scanlines).Line3x/4x/5x support for 240p/288p with different sampling modes.
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There's now also an excellent getting started video tutorial, kindly created by RetroRGB, that you can view here. If you're new to the OSSC and scalers/processors in general, you may wish to start with the quick start guide here. The firmware of the system is open source (hence the name) and new features can be added as time goes on. Output image quality and features have also been important targets as long as they didn't contradict with the project's primary goals.ĭue to interest in the retro gaming community, both DIY kits and pre-assembled boards were first released to the public during early 2016. The primary goal of the OSSC project was to create a scan converter with minimal latency and reasonable cost, which could also be assembled by hand. The board and firmware originated as a homebrew project in 2015. It converts analog RGB or component video signals into a digital format, and doubles (or triples) the scanlines of a single frame if necessary to generate a valid mode for digital TVs or monitors.
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The Open Source Scan Converter is a low-latency video digitizer and scan converter designed primarily for connecting retro video game consoles and home computers to modern displays. 7.4 Televisions, Monitors, Processors etc.7 Compatibility and special configuration.6.8 Audio options (available in -aud firmware).6.2.5.5 Horizontal/Vertical active length.6.2.5.4 Horizontal/Vertical backporch length.6.2.5.3 Horizontal/Vertical sync length.4.4 Digital audio output for v1.5 and earlier boards.4.2 DVI-D (v1.5 and earlier pre-assembled boards).4.1 HDMI (DIY boards, v1.6 and newer pre-assembled boards).If both your CRT and console support S-Video, that might be a cheaper solution when available.
#Low latency analog to digital video converter 240p
Here’s the POT’s I tweaked, but YouTube user Billkwando also has a good video about it:Īs an FYI, if you’re using a 240p console on a basic, consumer-grade CRT, you won’t see a big difference between RGB (or component) and S-Video…and it’s certainly not as drastic a difference as seen on high-end displays. I didn’t have as good results with the clone’s though I had to tweak the tuning POT’s before it looked right, which should never be necessary with analog video. It was tested and verified on an oscilloscope and it works with 240p, 480i and 480p.ĬSY-2100 & Clones I tested both a CSY-2100 SCART to Y-U-V converter and a clone system (the clones look similar to the one in the upper left picture, but have the screws on the sides, not front. The original CSY-2100 seemed to work well, however they’re expensive and hard to find. Shinybow SB-2840 This is a great converter, but the recent release of the much cheaper RetroTINK products has bumped it to second in line. These should preserve the signal quality, while allowing an easy way to convert the signals. The “RetroTINK” line of products includes a transcoder that converts between RGB and component. For more info, please check out my upscaler comparison page, as it describes in detail the difference between using RGB to component, vs an upscaler. They might even work well on your flat-screen TV, depending on compatibility. If you’re using a consumer-grade CRT that only has component inputs, these are the best choice. There are a few scenarios where converting RGB to component would be the right choice for your particular setup.
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This should always result in a zero-lag solution, with video quality varying. To start, I’d like to make the clarification that in this context, converters just change the signal type There’s no scaling or processing of the image. There are many different reasons you’d want to convert a signal and this page will slowly grow to discuss all of them.